Vieques

The largest of the Spanish Virgin Islands to the east of mainland Puerto Rico, Vieques is an off-beat escape perfectly suited to nature lovers (take your pick of sub-tropical dry forest, coastal lagoons, mangrove wetlands, and offshore coral reefs) and active vacationers, especially for mountain biking, kayaking, and fishing. For four decades, the eastern half of the isle was the setting for U.S. Navy bombardments and marine assault training, much to the islanders' chagrin. The Navy pulled out in 2003 after years of local protests. Today, the bulk of the isle forms the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge: its superb white-sand beaches – Red, ...

The largest of the Spanish Virgin Islands to the east of mainland Puerto Rico, Vieques is an off-beat escape perfectly suited to nature lovers (take your pick of sub-tropical dry forest, coastal lagoons, mangrove wetlands, and offshore coral reefs) and active vacationers, especially for mountain biking, kayaking, and fishing. For four decades, the eastern half of the isle was the setting for U.S. Navy bombardments and marine assault training, much to the islanders' chagrin. The Navy pulled out in 2003 after years of local protests. Today, the bulk of the isle forms the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge: its superb white-sand beaches – Red, Green, and Blue – lure Puerto Ricans on weekends, when the ferries bring families by car. Isabel Segunda, the main town, has suddenly burst to life with globe-spanning restaurants, while the recent opening of the W Resort & Spa has put the spotlight on Vieques. However, most visitors prefer sleepy Esperanza, on the south coast, with its waterfront promenade lined with lively, down-home bars and restaurants. You'll forever remember a nighttime kayak-and-swim trip on Bahía Mosquito, where bioluminescence envelopes you in a spectral green glow.

About the Expert

Christopher P. Baker has authored guidebooks to Costa Rica, California, and various Caribbean islands for Frommer's, Lonely Planet, and National Geographic, among others.