Canelones

Stretching north and east from Montevideo over softly rolling terrain, Canelones is a destination for one reason only — its vineyards and wineries, which make the rich red Tannat that has put the country on the enological map. Its charm stems from the fact that all those wineries are intimate operations where visitors feel guests of the family rather than clients of an industrial enterprise. Over the course of a day, it's possible to visit as many as three or four and, though not all of them have restaurants, almost all offer appetizers of cheeses and cold cuts, and will arrange catered meals for visiting groups. The wineries themselves are ...

Stretching north and east from Montevideo over softly rolling terrain, Canelones is a destination for one reason only — its vineyards and wineries, which make the rich red Tannat that has put the country on the enological map. Its charm stems from the fact that all those wineries are intimate operations where visitors feel guests of the family rather than clients of an industrial enterprise. Over the course of a day, it's possible to visit as many as three or four and, though not all of them have restaurants, almost all offer appetizers of cheeses and cold cuts, and will arrange catered meals for visiting groups. The wineries themselves are mostly older facilities that have upgraded their production equipment without sacrificing their romantic aspects, which often include brick cellars with picturesque alcoves; a couple occupy seigniorial properties with broad tree-lined entrances. Others are tiny boutique operations. Most require a day or two notice to arrange a visit, but it’s worth making phone inquiries if time is short.

About the Expert

Wayne Bernhardson is the author of Moon Handbooks to Argentina, Buenos Aires (including coastal Uruguay), Chile (including Easter Island), and Patagonia (including the Falkland Islands).