Zagreb

With a population of a million, Zagreb is easily Croatia's largest and most cosmopolitan city, though the center is still agreeably manageable on foot — or by the charming, clunking blue-and-white trams. Zagreb's heart is a fine, clean example of solid Habsburg architecture, tending towards palatial elegance, and large squares from which to view it, and for more than six months of the year it's a lively outdoor city, with café tables spilling out across the pavements and flowers everywhere. There's a compact old town on one hill and a fine neo-Gothic cathedral on the other, and behind the city looms the marvelous bulk of Mount ...

With a population of a million, Zagreb is easily Croatia's largest and most cosmopolitan city, though the center is still agreeably manageable on foot — or by the charming, clunking blue-and-white trams. Zagreb's heart is a fine, clean example of solid Habsburg architecture, tending towards palatial elegance, and large squares from which to view it, and for more than six months of the year it's a lively outdoor city, with café tables spilling out across the pavements and flowers everywhere. There's a compact old town on one hill and a fine neo-Gothic cathedral on the other, and behind the city looms the marvelous bulk of Mount Medvednica, perfect for getting away from it all, with skiing in winter as a bonus. With a big university and heaps of bars, clubs and nightlife available, the locals certainly know how to have a good time, and the ice-cream here is as good as anything you'll find in Italy. Zagreb is also particularly strong on classical culture, with regular opera, ballet, theater and musical performances of international standards.

About the Expert

Piers Letcher is the author of Croatia: the Bradt Travel Guide, Dubrovnik: the Bradt City Guide, and coauthor of Zagreb: the Bradt City Guide.